IT’S no secret that I’m a huge fan of Bertus Basson, and have such respect and admiration for everything he does – from the restaurants to the TV shows, to the opportunities he provides for his staff, and that he’s just as good with burgers and pizzas as he is with fine dining. Plus he’s a very cool guy, and he’s friends with Deon Meyer, so there’s that too. When I was invited to spend a few days in Stellenbosch I specifically requested that Kantien and Guewels be included in the itinerary.
My reasons were these: when Geuwels opened two years ago, I was in the area and booked a table for breakfast on my way home. Unfortunately no one had told me – or Google Maps – that the entrance to Vergenoegd Löw, the farm where it’s located, had been moved so I was unable to find it. I’ll spare you further frustrating details. On the very day Kantien opened in February I was in the area then too, but after driving around in circles for about an hour on a blazing hot Friday without finding parking, I gave up. I’ve still to complete my collection with Chorus and Clara’s Barn but at least I can tick these two off so long.
Not being able to find Geuwels – and similarly Eike when I went there the first time and there was no sign on Dorp Street – Kantien was just as mysterious. It looked like a pattern emerging. It’s actually attached to Eike, and good to know is there is plenty of off-street parking behind the restaurants. Something I was not aware of in February. Anyway. Bertus happened to be there when I arrived, having taken a stroll from my accommodation at Eendracht Hotel, and he gave me the grand tour. If you didn’t already know, Bertus loves motorcycles and Kantien reflects this in the decor, a classy biker bar without women’s underwear. When I first met Bertus – gosh, maybe 20 years ago? – I was struck by his enthusiasm. This hasn’t changed at all. Kantien is his baby, and his personality.
The menu at Kantien is small, but massive on taste. We began with one of each of the “snacks” to share: cheese grillers from Franky Fenner with bread and butter pickles, BBQ smoked wings with blue cheese dipping sauce, and baked smoked provolone with chilli, honey anchovies, tomato, and basil flatbread. All tasty as.
The large plates include steak prego roll, Caesar salad, mussels in beer and bacon sauce, and Plankie Vleis – the FFMM cut of the day, great beef, cooked simply. I was there for the pizza, however. Specifically the one with pineapple. While the world remains divided on this issue, I am for it and if Bertus is too, then the case is closed. The Varkie is topped with BBQ pork belly, caramelised onions and coriander, with the cold, fresh pineapple on the side with a dash of chilli. Flipping fantastic. Elmarie from Stellenbosch Wine Routes and Visit Stellenbosch, who was hosting me, had The Fun Guy – chorizo, confit mushrooms, parmesan, jalapeños. She says Die Ouma – pickled ox tongue, slap hakskeentjies, and nasturtium – is also excellent. For streamlined flavours, try the Bianca with ricotta, salted baby marrow, fior de latte and rocket; or the margarita with fior de latte and basil.
Uncomplicated toppings aside, Kantien’s pizzas are notable for their dough, and the crusts which are a delicacy in and of themselves, refined and tweaked by clever young chefs who are as excited about food as Bertus was at their age. Kantien is open Tuesdays to Saturdays, lunch 12pm to 3pm, dinner 5.30pm tp 8.30pm. Find it at 6 Papegaai Street, Stellebosch. Call 071 1383 991 or email [email protected]
My last stop on this trip was Geuwels, for the Farm Breakfast, aka Die Soutie. Booking is essential; I was waiting for my table when two men came in wanting to be seated. “Do you have a reservation?” they were asked. “No,” they said, hanging their heads, shame. Off they went, hungry.
They missed out on a spectacular breakfast. Bacon, Basson Beans, fried eggs, mushroom, cheese grillers, and roosterkoek with butter. I haven’t been a fan of baked beans for many years, childhood trauma probably, but I was willing to give them a try if Bertus put his name to them. Definitely better than any I’ve had before. I’ll post some pics on Instagram.
Other breakfasts include a platter for one with a selection of seasonal fruit, ham, smoked trout, toasted roosterkoek, jam and Huguenot cheese; melkkos with cinnamon, orange zest; “Bennie & Hennie” – crisp chicken, baby spinach, toasted roosterkoek, poached eggs, Hollandaise; eggs royal – smoked trout, chive cream, poached egg, Hollandaise, roosterkoek; croque madame – smoked pork belly, roosterkoek, fried egg, chive; mushroom and potato hash, spinach, tomato smoor, poached eggs, roosterkoek; and “regmakertjie”- smoked pork belly, basson beans, fried eggs, roosterkoek.
If that doesn’t get you out there, I don’t know what will. Oh, maybe the twice-daily duck parade? The working farm employs a waddling (I like that better than flock, or even raft) of Indian Runner ducks to eat slugs and snails in the vineyards, and they’re brought to the werf after daily duty at 12pm. Before they used to pass by but now they keep them there for a while, letting them sit and preen for their audience.
Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate, 1 Vergenoegd Road, off Old Faure Road, Faure, Stellenbosch Wine Route, call +27 (0)21 202 43 73, email [email protected]
Wine Wine Town Stellenbosch runs from August 1-6, showcasing the best that Stellies has to offer. This includes Eike’s fabulous winter special three-course menu, usually only available on Wednesdays. The 50% off special will be available from Tuesday until Saturday in celebration of Wine Town. At Kantien, get a free Diesel & Dust beer with your pizza (eat in, over 18s only). At Geuwels, the Farm Breakfast is R125, and the lunch special is R250 per person. Breakfast is served from 8am to 11am and lunch specials 11.30am to 3.30pm. Clara’s Barn, also at Vergenoegd, offers a South African Experience menu for R495, lunch (Wednesdays to to Sundays) or dinner (Thursdays to Saturdays).
PHOTO CREDIT: Lukas Stander
