BOSCHENDAL is one of South Africa’s greatest agricultural gems,” says Peter Tempelhoff. “Arum is our way of telling its story through the produce it grows, the history, and, of course, the wine.”
Now that it’s officially open, after two media lunches this week and what was by all accounts, a lovely party last weekend, it’s strange to think I heard about this project, from Peter’s very own lips, at the Eat Out Awards at the end of March; seven months is both short and long.
Last week Arum hosted us so we could try some dishes from the menu. Arum now has access to the huge Boschendal farm garden, which they are making their own with replantings, as well as a variety of produce from the farm, like pork and beef. There was a tour of the garden but I didn’t get the memo so on account of the brutal heat, an vampiric aversion to the sun and no parasol, I remained in the air conditioned restaurant and watched, sipping on a glass of bubbly.
Nor did I follow the group for the educational on the interior, and that’s what the hard-working marketing people have press releases for: “Arum inhabits the restored 1812 Werf building, re-envisioned by MR. Studio (Rotem Shachar and Megan Bond) and architect Jaques Mouton – who were appointed and overseen by the FYN Group’s long-time collaborator Tristan du Plessis of Studio A – with Adrian Kuyper of ANK Projects as project manager. The interiors unfold as a journey through the realms of mineral, vegetable, and animal, expressed through grow-tunnel structures, mohair textiles, vegetable-inspired sculptural fireplaces, a dramatic dry-ageing vitrine, and a monumental bone-inspired bar – a piece of functional artwork by artist Driaan Claasen.”
Arum, a contemporary, produce-driven restaurant shaped by fire, seasonality, and the natural rhythm of the farm, is led by executive chef Tempelhoff and partner Travis Finch, bringing a modern, globally influenced approach to farm-to-table dining, framed by the heritage and regenerative ethos of one of South Africa’s most historic working farms.
We were presented a selection of dishes drawn from the primary menu, a choice of starters, mains and dessert, preceded first by aforementioned bubbly, then Jennifer Hugé’s interpretation of a French 75. Truly, her title of group sommelier and service director doesn’t even begin to do her justice. Her knowledge is encyclopaedic and her expertise unrivalled. “She has collaborated with Boschendal’s winemakers to create a bespoke collection of estate-grown, single-varietal wines made exclusively for Arum — Semillon (from the acclaimed La Colline vineyard), Alicante Bouschet, Marselan, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre. At the bar, Hugé transforms the farm’s fruit, herbs, and botanicals into ferments, tinctures, creating elegant reimaginings of classic cocktails served alongside their counterparts.”
The first two courses, Bread Box and Snacks, were for the table to share. I quietly appreciated that sufficient was served for all the guests, well within arm’s reach; it’s not always like this in such situations and can lead to sadness. The bread was kapokbos and olive focaccia, and wood-fired ciabatta, with salted farm butter, and smoked hummus. The snacks were farm-reared Duroc charcuterie – prosciutto, coppa, saucisson, ferments and pickles, and the most beautiful plate of glistening heirloom tomatoes, with salsa verde and sourdough crumb salt. It was hard to hold back.
The starter choices were stracciatella cheese encased in fire roasted beetroot, with hibiscus vinegar and hazelnut (a huge portions); rooibos-smoked duck, squash salad, butternut parfait, young mango atchar, and spiced salt; and my pick, Cape octopus, crispy guanciale, smoked corn, brown butter, habanero and yellow tomato. Wary of burny things, I asked for the habanero to be served on the side and boy, I’m so glad about that. I didn’t miss it at all in the dish, which was superb.
Those around me who ordered the ricotta gnudi with charred romanesco, burnt leeks, lemon mascarpone, crispy parmesan, and kale emulsion, were very happy with their dish, as were those who had ordered pan roasted kingklip, green bean and asparagus risotto, Western Cape mussel sauce, and tomato. Me, I had dry aged prime rib served with garden carrots, caramelised onions, crispy potato cake, and beef juices. When the meat was served, it was from a platter which also carried the actual prime rib. Unfortunately I was not forceful enough: “what’s going to happen to that?” was trumped by “I’ll have the bone,” from someone else down the table. Oh well, one lives and learns.
The steak was fabulous, and done two way, carrots are becoming on of my favourite vegetables. The Alicante Bouschet poured with this was exquisite.
“Desserts honour the orchards and vineyards with baked pineapple pelargonium mousse, cherries steeped in Shiraz, caramelised honey pain perdu, and a Dalewood cheese concept course which celebrates Tempelhoff’s favourite cheesery in the valley, through varying temperatures – the dish is aptly named ‘three degrees of cheese’, a recreation of a famous Greenhouse signature.”
A moment, if you will, for that cheese. I can confidently say it’s the best cheese course I’ve had. It comprises Huguenot ice cream (frozen), chilled Lanquedoc cheesecake of the lightest texture (not unlike the Japanese cheesecake at Raemnhead), and a square of room temperature Simond, plus an equally sized cheese cracker. Spectacularly creative and delicious.
Overall, an incredible experience, from the first moment to the last. No attention to detail has been spared, from wait staff uniforms to the background music curated by Dino Moran. This is what excellence looks like.
Arum at Boschendal Estate is open for lunch and dinner Wednesdays – Sundays. Book via Dineplan.
