GAVIN BINDER, co-founding partner of Una Más Tequila & Mezcaleria in Sea Point with his brother Sean, does not pull the “tequila face”. You all know the one, when tequila shooters seem like a good idea so everyone does them but with a scrunched up face that says this is the worst thing ever. Why? Not why the face, why keep doing it?
First of all, Gavin doesn’t do the face because he is an experienced tequila – and mezcal – drinker: the good stuff, made for sipping not shooting. Secondly, he has the theory that because tequila has the effect of not so much making a person drunk (I have history that says otherwise) but because it creates a fast buzz, a high, it keeps ’em coming back for more.
Gavin discovered mezcal while travelling the world, and learned how well it married with cocktails, giving it the opportunity to become interesting and make its way into mainstream culture. Back in South Africa, there was nothing like this and nowhere to get it. The answer was for him and Sean to do it themselves. In 2021 they decided they wanted to open a bar. Details were hazy, and mezcal wasn’t featuring highly at that stage. “We knew we’d know when we saw it,” says Gavin.
Everything came together suddenly when Sean was on a date with a woman who knew the owner and chef of this little place in Sea Point who wanted to sell. He called Gavin immediately. “We made an offer the next day,” he says. “This concept was perfect, a beautiful bar, the vibe…that was the catalyst.”
The plan was to have the bar front and centre, in the starring role with the food as a support act. “It’s tipped a little, it’s more equal now,” says Gavin. “We couldn’t ask for anything more than that. We called it a mezcaleria because people would wonder what that is. It was a serendipitous thing that came about how and when it was supposed to.”
The cocktail menu is of course extensive, and creative. I had a Rosita – reposado tequila, sweet and dry vermouth, Campari, and bitters, my friend the Mexican Dreams – Roku gin, mezcal, fresh ginger, syrup, lime, pineapple, both delicious. After our meal, we chatted to Gavin about mezcal and tequila and the distinctions between the two. Simply put, both are agave spirits. The major difference: tequila is only permitted to use one particular variety of agave, Blue Weber Agave, while mezcal can be made from all of them, up to 30 species of the agave plant, all with different flavour profiles. Another significant divergence is that the agave hearts for mezcal are roasted underground in fire pits lined with volcanic rock, while for tequila they are cooked in clay ovens.
You can still shoot your tequila at Una Más, from bottles kept in the fridge. “We would never discourage it,” says Gavin. “We want people to enjoy the tequila the way they want. It’s not going to change anything.”
The good stuff, however, is not in the fridge; low temperatures leach flavour from everything. Which is why you shouldn’t keep your tomatoes in there either, but nobody wants to listen to me. Anyway.
Mezcal outside Mexico is a relatively new industry, around 10 years old. Una Más has about 60 different ones on the shelves, 35 of which are on the menu. “If you’re lucky enough to catch me and I’m in a good mood maybe I’ll bring out one of the two special bottles,” laughs Gavin. But they are rare and you have to to know what to ask for. Just short of 100 tequilas are available with, 10 to 15 that are very rare and aren’t on the menu. Again, if you know, you know.
Traditionally mezcal is the “everyman” drink in Mexico, says Gavin. “They drink mezcal like we drink wine, pretty much on every occasion, especially celebrations. They drink it out champagne flutes, generally. In Mexico they drink it neat; we’re not there yet in SA.”
While we were there, we sampled some of the newer dishes on the menu, including Grillo Chapulin – a house-made blue corn taco topped with air roasted, locally raised edible crickets, adobo paste, avocado, parsley, fresh herbs, red
onion and cilantro salad, chilli and yoghurt dressing. Yes we ate crickets. No we are not squeamish. Not until a street market in Bangkok that is.
Enjoyed the Empanada De Mexicana – slow-cooked beef, pico de gallo, queso fresco (milky white cheese) with chipotle aioli (vegan option available) very much; and I had fish tacos for the first time: Pescado Crujiente comprises tequila battered hake, aioli, braised red cabbage, gem lettuce, pico de piña, cilantro and lime. My favourite was the Tazón de Burrito, or burrito bowl. A choice of chicken, beef or beans (and a vegan option) is offered, with cilantro-scented rice, avocado guacamole, blue tortilla chips, corn, braised red cabbage, queso fresco, cilantro and chilli salsa.
It’s worth noting, this was a Sunday afternoon, another one pouring with rain because there have been so many of those this winter (not complaining), and the tiny place was packed. It’s a vibe, people. I love it. My pics on Instagram.
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