IT is but two weeks until the winter solstice, by which I rule my life, and the days will slowly begin to grow longer and perhaps I can still find the full sun the freesia bulbs are demanding so as to flower in spring. In the meantime, however, temperatures have been plummeting and we’ve had decent rain – with more coming. As of this week, the Western Cape dams are collectively just more than 70% full. At least we have water…
I love the cold rainy weather, although I’m still waiting for such a day that coincides with not having to go anywhere, and to have electricity to watch series, a seemingly impossible combination. Someone asked me the other day if I find it difficult going out at this time, and my answer is always this: it’s a matter of getting over the mental challenge (and out of bed), the thought of going out. Once you’re out the front door, you’re committed, so you deal with it. Of course, there has to be a good enough reason, and winter specials at restaurants are exactly that.
We went to Scala Pasta the other night to sample its winter set menu, which is R999 for two people sharing (which has been the restaurant’s concept since day one), all week, lunch or dinner. You can add on a drink at either end for an additional R149 per person, or make your selection from the wines and cocktails. I’m not sure why Scala – and its sibling restaurants – go for the R999 figure, which can be a bit of a fright until you realise it’s R500 each. That covers seven dishes over three courses, plus a complimentary truffle pasta lollipop croquette with pepper béchamel to get those tastebuds ready for what’s to come.
The antipasti course comprises olive and potato focaccia, and grissini sticks, chargrilled melanzane with tomato salsa, basil and Parmesan; and stewed beef meatballs with alsa verde, sweet mustard, and chives.
Scala, which is dark and moody (but with adjustable ring light table lamps to make sure you get that perfect Instagram shot, or selfie), plays on the theatre of food notion; the lights in the dining area are dim but the kitchen is fully lit so you can watch the chefs at work. This is from an article I wrote last year when it opened (September 2022): As you enter, there’s a dining area on ground level to your right, but when you descend the steps (“scala” in Italian) into the cave-like depths you’re entering another world. The entire room is painted black, air ducts are exposed, and bright marigold-yellow napkins add pops of colour on the marble tables. They’re printed with “Not your mama’s pasta” on one side, “Everything you see I owe to pasta” on the other – a famous quote from Sophia Loren. At the end is the kitchen, brightly lit like a stage. For it is a theatre, and it’s more than a mere kitchen. It has one of those fancy charcoal ovens that cost about the same as a small house. At one end is the Pasta Laboratory, where leftover bits are rolled together and mixed with truffle to make a lollipop to welcome you and whet your appetite.
From opening, the signature carbonara by Luciano Monosilio has been The Big Deal. With guanciale, egg and pecorino, it is included in the menu offering. It was good to revisit the dish, and I enjoyed it even more this time around. It’s joined by all my other favourites: tortelli with coal-roasted tomato, burratina, and black truffle (plenty of it); oven baked pacchero filled with basil ricotta, rustic tomato and Grana Padano; and pici cacio e pepe – fat pici noodles, hand rolled, with simply lots of black pepper and cheese. Each dish indicates what kind of flour is used.
I think it’s important to note that we were sated, us women with large appetites, which indicates the generosity of the menu. There is still dolci to follow – Sicilian cannolo with ricotta orange rind, dark chocolate, and crushed pistachio, served to look like cigars in an ashtray.
Complemented by exceptional service, and the superb company of a friend I hadn’t seen for a while, this whole night was definitely worth getting out of bed for.
Where: 81 Church Street, Cape Town
When: Pasta Scala is open daily from 12pm to 10.30pm
Call: +27 (21) 424 7204
Email: [email protected]
For more information, click here.
PS I parked across the road in the Heritage Square lot. I thought I was being clever leaving my car close to the payment office but now it was dark and far away. The doorman at Scala said he’d keep an eye on me, but then a parking attendant appeared and walked me safely to my car. Thanks, guy, I’m sorry I didn’t get your name.
