THERE are so many reasons to visit Vergenoegd Löw, whether it’s for the day, part of the day, or to stay for a night or six. I was there for about 24 consecutive hours and came way content and impressed. Let me tell you why.
Michelle Theron is the relatively newly installed head of gastronomy. She’s been there for a few months, planning, working, picking things from the garden and so on. Her domain includes Geuwels and Clara’s Barn (which will reopen later this year), as well as the platters for wine tasting experiences, breakfast at the Homestead and in-room dining. I got to try all of these, beginning with lunch at Geuwels.
The service begins with a bread course with an optional mini wine tasting of three wines (Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé, Merlot). The breads are a mosbolletjie and a kaiing roosterkoek, with butters and flavoured salts. The menu is divided into starters, mains, sides, and desserts, with as much produce as possible coming from the farm, or from trusted nearby suppliers, for sustainability, and each dish has a recommended wine pairing.
I began with warm goose and fig croquettes with spekboom chutney, a crispy and crunchy crust, soft inside. The figs were on the side for vibrant mouthfuls with the chutney. Abalobi is the fish partner, and I had the catch of the day, Cape bream, perfectly cooked, luscious and brittle-skinned, served with brown butter, garlic and lemon, and a generous helping of crushed potatoes. I’m having a bit of a carrot moment so I ordered the rooibos-smoked heirloom citrus-glazed carrots with wild herb yoghurt, toasted sorghum and carrot-top salsa verde. Very good indeed.
To finish, there was Pampoen Poffer, a light pumpkin and ginger tea cake textured with pecan brittle, meringue and butterscotch sauce.
From there, it’s a short stroll to the hotel reception where I was handed a glass of the Chenin Blanc cap classique and installed in a golf cart to take me to what I though would be my room. Oh no. It was an entire whole house. Two bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms flanking a lounge dining room with fireplace. Sliding doors from all three rooms opening onto a deck with a private heated swimming pool. A complimentary mini bar and kitchenette with a microwave, kettle, tea/coffee machine, a lime and a beautiful knife arranged on a marble chopping board.
Decor is tasteful and comfortable, and thoughtful touches included plastic tumblers to use by the pool, extra length curtains which drape on the floor to block out that pesky morning sun, proper bath sheets (will be law in all establishments when I rule the world), and decent light to read by in bed (should also be mandatory). I can’t think of a thing I wanted and couldn’t find, or wasn’t there. I even managed to master the air conditioning.
Dinner was in-room (in-cottage should I say), delivered by a troop of staff who were there to do turn down (nougat and a bunch of fresh herbs on the pillow), offer to make a fire, and present the food. Communication takes place via WhatsApp or the in-room phone. I supped on garden greens, fried halloumi, and marinated tomatoes in Szechuan pepper vinaigrette; and a Farmhouse Relish Board with bread, snoek pâté, tomato chutney, curried vegetable sambal and the most delicious herb pesto. My eyes were bigger than my tummy.
The next morning I had to be up bright and early because of the ducks. Vergenoegd Löw is famous for its waddling of Indian Runner ducks. You can say flock if you are being boring. The ducks work hard in the vineyards, eating slugs and snails and puppy dog tails; now in summer, they clean up the dams and surrounds because there is no water for them in the vineyards. I have seen these ducks, or their ancestors, many times and I’m happy to report the joy does not diminish with repetition.
The ducks arrive on the lawns in front of the Homestead en masse, promptly at 9am, to preen and pose, their excitement to be out and about is far exceeded by that of the children present, who collectively do their nuts. I can relate. Off they go for their half day and return at noon, still punctual but visibly less enthusiastic.
In between these duck parades, I eked out the last moments in my cottage, had breakfast at the Homestead – a poached duck egg included – and had an Indigenous Tasting under the trees outside Geuwels, a Michelle-initiative I am told. This experience includes seven happies around a centrepiece with little surprises of bokkoms, droëwors and biltong tucked into plants you can eat, like kooigoed. The platter showcases ingredients like the aforementioned as well as kaiings, amasi, spekboom, surrvygies, kei apple and roosterkoek. With seven wines, this costs R400 and is easily a meal. Booking is essential, with 24 hours’ advance notice.
From the website: “Cape Town-born and -bred, Michelle trained at La Motte and Hazendal wine estates and refined her craft in Michelin-starred European kitchens. Widely travelled, she believes food tells the story of place: ‘Our food, how we conceive, prepare and serve it is our response to the land and what we call place. It carries the imprint of our blended cultures, histories and heritage, and is infused with memories, dreams and longings.’
“Michelle’s arrival coincides with our expanded regenerative farming programme, giving her a steady source of estate-grown Dexter beef, lamb, poultry, eggs, vegetables, herbs and honey. Her culinary style is simplicity with sophistication, where seasonal ingredients and traditional Cape flavours take centre stage.
I was sad to leave but I had a full – and fulfilling – experience. If I had been better prepared, I could have done the art walk or garden meander but I hand’t packed a parasol. There are quite a few Dylan Lewis pieces on the property. What also must be noted is that every single staff member is exceptional, in the way they care for their guests, how they anticipate needs, and their friendly manner. I truly felt like a queen.
For more information, click here.
- Tune into my Instagram @biancaleecoleman for pics of the deliciousness, and more ducks.
