WHEN La Petite Colombe was awarded three stars at the 2025 Eat Out Woolworths Restaurant Awards, as well as the Eat Out Patrón Mixology Award for the second time, I wasted no time in inviting myself there for a meal. I have been fortunate to eat there before, but not since Peter Duncan took over as head chef. A day or two later, Heston Blumenthal dined there too, so good choices were made all round.
Detractors can say what they like about the awards (look, it’s not Cape Town’s fault most of the best restaurants are here) but that mostly comes from a place of not knowing how the judging works. I’m not here today to defend it (although I could) but to say when you walk into three-star restaurant, you know it. At La Petite Colombe you are made to feel special, as if you are the only person in the world who matters, from the first moment to the last. It’s like being wrapped in cashmere.
In fact, it begins before that, as you drive (or are chaffeur-driven) along the leafy avenues of Leeu Estates, and take the short stroll through meticulous gardens populated by monumental sculptures. The view of these from the restaurant, through floor to ceiling glass, provides the backdrop to your meal.
The full chef’s menu with a choice of supplementary ingredients and three wine pairing options, is an incredible experience, brought to the table by several different servers and chefs. One course is even partly prepared at your table. There is a sense of dramatic flair and theatre that still manages to remain elegant and understated, and every mouthful is impeccable joy. Do I even need to praise the presentation? All right, it’s exquisite.
Upon arrival I was ushered to a table in the lounge area for the first course of appetisers, and the suggestion of a cocktail. I normally go directly to the wine but in this case, given the mixology award, a cocktail was essential. Top of the list is the sage martini, prepared with Cape Saint Blaze gin, distilled in Mossel Bay and exclusive to La Petite Colombe. It’s presented in a cloud of dry ice and so delicious I could have drained the glass in one gulp and asked for more. I managed to comport myself, and paid attention to Tanaka, who brought my layered basket of snacks. I’m going to be loose with full descriptions because not only do things change, but one should still have some surprises in store. Let me just say the “Leeu Estates Olives” were not at all what I expected but thanks to Tanaka’s warning, I was able to eat them without messing, and they were incredible.
Off to my window table in slanted sunlight, and it was on to the langoustine salad. The bread course is detailed in a previous story, part one, which you can read here. There was crayfish, there was yellowfin tuna, and Peter’s famous line fish “viskop” chowder which is insanely good – a fine dining take on a staple dish where he comes from, and a highlight of the meal.
The palate cleanser is mind-blowingly creative in its presentation (you really need to consider the creative minds at work here), before moving on to Karoo wagyu with petit pois and truffle.
Along with all this were wine pairings which sommelier Elton treated me from across the menu, which is classic pairing, premium pairing, and fine and rare pairing. It was a lot, but well-paced. Even so, I made the decision to skip the sweet dessert and finish with the cheese course: smoked Stanford, pear and mustard. My belly did not regret this one bit but my heart ached a little to miss Mama’s Pride, made by Peter to honour his mother; throughout this meal are pointers to his life, like the viskop and the accompaniments to the bread course. The stone fruit and crème fraîche dessert is served under a tin upon which is the story behind it, with the reveal at the table. Even though I didn’t have it myself, I was aware of the oohs and aahs of glee and delight at the tables around me.
The final flourish is the whimsical sweets trolley…the conclusion of a truly memorable and exceptional life event.
With thanks also to Kalla, Dumisa, Tashlynn, Pumla and Charlynne.
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PHOTO CREDIT: Jan Ras Photography
