Groot Phesantekraal's new restaurant inspired by local heritage

DURBANVILLE has a new culinary gem: Groot Phesantekraal’s beautifully reimagined restaurant, led by chef Germaine Esau. Honouring the rich heritage of the 326-year-old farm, fourth-generation owners André and Ronelle Brink, together with Germaine (pictured below), have relaunched their eatery to, like the farm’s wines, evoke a sense of authentic, generous hospitality – rich in delicious local flavour, community, and heart.

Let’s go into some background. “We’re so much part of the history of our setting here in Durbanville. Established in 1698, this farm stands as one of the oldest in the region,” says André, who, by the way, has just been named Western Cape Farmer of the Year of 2024 by the Agricultural Writers SA Awards. “We’re here for the past, the present and the future, with our new restaurant highlighting our deep-rooted connection to this land in our food, in our wine, in good company, in community, in spirit and in soul. That’s what we’re about.”

We were invited to enjoy a three-course lunch and a bottle of wine; the recommendation was the multi award-winning Anna De Koning Reserve Chenin Blanc 2023, so it would have been rude to decline. The tasting notes are: “Concentrated, elegant sweet melon fruit with honeyed almond, nougat, candied nuts and citrus notes following through on the palate. A refined full mouth and lingering taste from the lees contact, French oak maturation, and supportive acidity.” Germaine’s menu includes recommended pairings for each course from talented young winemaker Richard Schroeder.

It was Saturday, hot and sunny. While the tasting room across the lawn was filled with guests under the umbrellas and the shade of vines, we were quite happy with the cool air conditioned interior of the restaurant. It’s in the restored 1767 stable, which still has the centuries-old cobble stone floor and wooden troughs that seamlessly complement contemporary, comfortable furniture, while historic photographs and custom-blue Dutch tiles adorn thick walls. It’s a relatively small space with only a few tables inside; fine for summer when most people will want to be al fresco but I’m sure they’ll have a plan for inclement weather when the times comes.

We were welcomed and seated by Abigail, who was able to answer all our questions about the menu, as well as give us a history of Anna de Koning/Koningh/Coningh. She was the wife of early Swedish explorer Olof Bergh (who was granted the farm Groot Phesantekraal in 1698) and the daughter of an enslaved woman, Angela van Bengale, and a white father. Having started life amongst some of the poorest inhabitants of the Cape, Anna died one of the wealthiest members of Cape society. She was the third owner of Groot Constantia, having inherited it from her husband after his death, as well as several other estates around the Colony. (Additional details: Wikipedia.)

We deliberated at length over the menu, eventually ordering Phesantekraal pork terrine with mustard, port-soaked cherries, croutons and garden leaves; and Phesantekraal venison tartare with fried capers, aioli, chives, and potato crisps for scooping. The meat was buffel, said Abigail, hunted by Oom André. It was exceptionally good with wonderful mouthfeel and texture. My friend was far happier with the terrine.

On to main courses. Grilled line fish with braised gem lettuce, peas, bacon and bokkoms was very tempting – what a great combination of ingredients. The potato “risotto” with mushrooms and “hangkaas” sounded intriguing but I eventually decided on the Phesantekraal Farm Chicken – a dish making its first appearance that day. It comprised three pieces of rolled leg, a little peppered pie, liver parfait on a little biscuit, with a charred leek and apple cider. My friend had a beautiful piece of dry-aged free-range sirloin with a decent bit of fat left on it, accompanied by broccoli, confit garlic and jus. Oh we didn’t stop there – a side each is included with mains: I had a bowl of crispy roast potatoes with kapokbos salt and sour cream with chives; my friend chose the sweet potato glazed with honey and orange and sprinkled with pecan nuts. They were very sweet and sticky, bordering on dessert.

Speaking of which, I made the executive decision while my friend wasn’t paying attention, and ordered one times chocolate crémeux with light-as-air honeycomb that didn’t get stuck in anyone’s teeth, preserved ginger and vanilla ice cream, and one times strawberry pavlova with Chantilly cream and strawberry sorbet. It doesn’t get more summery than that. From beginning to end, portions were hugely generous, so not to take away from the indulgence of a three-course meal, but perhaps keep that in mind when ordering. You have the option of cheese and charcuterie platters for one or two people, also available over at the tasting room where some jolly nice-sounding flatbreads are served too.

This was a four-hour lunch which I think indicates how well it went. Here’s the PR, and some insight from Germaine, who was born and bred in Stellenbosch. A University of Stellenbosch BSc graduate in geology and environmental studies, he switched paths in 2009 to pursue a culinary career. Earning a diploma in professional cheffing and culinary arts from the Institute of Culinary Arts in 2010, his change served him well, securing him prestigious positions at top establishments including Delaire Graff, Myoga at The Vineyard Hotel, and Majeka House, among others.

He explains that, under his direction and the dedication of his kitchen team, the Groot Phesantekraal restaurant now serves hyper-seasonal menus that showcase fresh produce with a specific focus on ingredients sourced directly from the farm, including free-range eggs, dairy, venison, honey and olive oil, and when available, figs and quinces.

“’We’re even chatting to artisans to hand-mill the wheat that comes right here from the farm. And we recently planted fields of pumpkin and makataan. So, yes, we’ll be doing a lot of preserving and fermenting.

“These past few weeks, working with the locals and fresh farm produce from right here, I check myself, appreciating the incredible imprint of this farm on the local community,” he reflects. “I think beyond the arrival of the Brinks, and the Louw and Bergh families who preceded them, to right at the beginning of recorded history, in 1698, when this land was granted to Olof Bergh, an early Swedish-South African explorer, often described as an entertaining, colourful character.

“What did they grow back then? How did they prepare their food? What did they combine and how? These are the questions that keep me fascinated and invigorate me and my journey with food. And this is the ideal place for what I have to share. Big-heartedness: it defines the dining experience here.

“Our restaurant’s great for a leisurely family-style breakfast or lunch on weekends or a quick mid-week treat. We like to keep it down-to-earth.”

Special events are hosted throughout the year. Follow Groot Phesantekraal’s social media and website for updates on happenings at this Durbanville farm-to-fork restaurant, but in the meantime, there will be a Thanksgiving dinner on Friday, 29 November, starting at 6pm, booking through Quicket where you’ll find all the details.