LET’S address the elephant in the room right away: the restaurant at One&Only Cape Town does not have the best history. The resort opened in 2009, and the dining space has been through more iterations than I can recall. It’s probably not as many as I think it is, but I do recall Reuben Riffel and Gordon Ramsay each having a go at it. And yet there it was, closed again.
The space reopened just less than two months ago, reimagined as ROOI. We had dinner there last week and I fervently hope that this one’s the charm, because they so deserve it. From the website: “ROOI is a celebration of land and sea, touched by fire. As a South African grill room, ROOI looks to redefine the traditional dining experience, allowing local influences to shine through in the smallest details, from décor to menu.
“The name comes from the Afrikaans word for ‘red’ (one of the 12 official languages of South Africa), a colour associated with power, vitality and life. A further extension of this colour is associated with flames and fire, a core pillar upon which ROOI rests.”
This is the introduction diners are given by the staff, many of whom are new and newly trained, and growing in confidence by the day. A hand to the heart greeting is extended by each team member and it’s quick and easy to follow suit with this touching gesture in response. Everyone is extremely proud of what they are doing and excited to share details of the food, the kitchen, the ingredients…resort chef Terrance Ford came out to chat about the menu, which is deeply and firmly rooted in South African flavours, and dishes with personal meaning to the members of his team. This is no doubt going to be a winner with international guests, but locals shouldn’t be afraid to step inside; yes it’s a five-star resort and you will pay accordingly but you can order wisely. Portions are generous too.
Following the bubbly from the bubbly trolley (yes really!) and the bread course of roosterkoek, mosbolletjie and butter dusted with biltong, for starters we had flame-grilled tuna with celeriac and horseradish remoulade, fire-roasted red cabbage and apple mustard dressing (pictured below), and Simon’s Town chokka and chips (not as you’ve ever had them before) with lemon and parsley sauce vierge and aioli.
My biggest delight of the evening was that sommelier Luvo Ntezo was on duty. Not only is his wine knowledge and language pure poetry, but he is an outstanding and beautiful human, one of my favourites of all time. We have a long history, stretching back to his first job as a somm, and having him there made my night. He ensured we got to taste some lovely wines (keeping in line with the request not to go overboard), and placed us in the capable hands of his protégé Marcelin Mudondo. How lucky she is to learn from him. I’ll pop those wines on Instagram with some pics of our meal at some point.
Website info again: “Wine culture has long been imbued in South Africa and One&Only Cape Town. The new Tasting Table alongside the Wine Loft in ROOI seeks to showcase the world of wine, in a unique and memorable setting. The wine loft offers patrons wishing to conduct private dining for two, a unique space to do so whereas the Tasting Table offers a more open style of dining amongst friend groups of eight.
“The curated wine list has been handpicked by Luvo Ntezo, the resort’s head sommelier, selected to ensure that only the best of the best would be showcased. Included in this list are little-known wine farms, boutique vineyards and international classics that allow for every wine drinker to go on a journey around the country (or even the world) without moving out of their seat. Not only will Luvo and his team of wine stewards guide guests through tannins, tastings and more but they will be able to suggest appropriate pairings alongside any dinner choices, allowing for every meal to be a bespoke one.”
For her main course my friend had the smoky Josper (that’s a very expensive and elite oven) aubergine with muhammara, flatbread, sumac pickled shallots, herbs and chilli oil. Mine was 600g of aged mutton ribs and included a side (Boerenkaas and sage pap) and a sauce. I declined the latter as I wanted to taste the meat, and it was a good call. The inclusion of mutton on the menu is interesting and most welcome. Everyone’s always lamb, lamb, lamb but mutton brings depth and flavour its younger counterpart does not. Our lovely waitress Nobuhle Ndlovu brought wet wipes for my potentially sticky fingers but the meat just slid off the bone so there was no need. The starter portions had been so big I couldn’t finish so there were leftovers for lunch the next day.
Also, I had to keep space for dessert. Hertzoggie with poached apricots, coconut ice cream and coconut crumble for my friend; ROOI S’Mores for me. It gave Nobuhle a chance to play with her blowtorch and a bit of tableside fire and drama is always appreciated. There was dark chocolate mousse, caramelised white chocolate crumble with a hint of saltiness to cut and balance all the sweetness, vanilla chantilly cream, and of course scorched marshmallows. For the savoury palate, the Josper-baked Dalewood Fromage Lanquedoc wheel with kumquat preserve, crisp bread sheets, toasted nuts, honeycomb shards and rosemary honey sounds like it comes directly from heaven. It’s recommended for two diners but I’m certainly not going to judge anyone who eats it on their own.
A note on the design and decor (website): “The design and decor of the space blend local artistry with natural elements, such as the Pincushion Protea embossed on menus and tables or the wooden horned seats inspired by South Africa’s Ankole cattle, seated around tables for two. The use of stone and various woods, including large Natal Mahogany trees, creates an outdoor feel, complemented by a host desk crafted from burnt wood with carvings reflecting the Koi San tribes. An inlay rug showcases local flora and fauna in a swirling pattern and a custom mural by Elise Wessels illustrates an enchanting African landscape with whimsical animals. Warm terracotta and copper tones, alongside soft limestone green, anchor the main dining area, while earthy shades ground the richer colors. The centerpiece of the open kitchen is a stunning tapestry of forged metal tiling in purple, rust, silver, and platinum, crafted by Bronze Age, adding a striking theatrical element to the room.”
This all adds up to a memorable experience, of which we loved every moment. For reservations or more information, click here or call +27 21 431 5888.
