AT the Tasting Room at Creation, everything is in harmony. Even the playlist by DJ Tess. Perhaps you will notice it while you are there, perhaps not, but either way, if you pick up one of the menus on the table, there will be a QR code for you to access it, as well as a video, recipes for the ambitious, and all the the gorgeous photographs you see here. Plus, one menu has words, another only pictures, which work independently – or together, to illustrate the brief dish descriptions.
Creation Wines is always an exceptional experience, and it has an armful of awards to prove it: Eat Out stars, Gourmet Guide plates (the latest bestowed just this week), best vineyard in Africa, and number three in the world. The Power of Flowers pairing—plant-based available too—is served until the end of November, whereafter the Power of Love steps in. A five-chapter journey, six if you count the umami-rich herb and flower consommé at the beginning, each plate features a flower in some shape or form: from edible flowers or petals, to tuile decorations on the dessert. Subtle and ever-present.
Every course is beautifully complemented, as always, with Creation’s wines. The consommé is poured alongside Roussanne Grenache Blanc Viognier, in a welcome titled “Rain In A Herb Garden”. The clear soup is all the more remarkable for the flavour packed in there, invisible to the naked eye but carrying delicate weight on the palate. It’s a fitting announcement of what is to come.
Chapter one is “Ocean’s Gift”, a little taco with umfino, cos lettuce, tahini dressing, herbs, capers and pickled onions. It’s paired with Sauvignon Semillon. It never fails to delight me that winemaker JC Martin agrees with me that Sav needs that Semillon. Another note here: Eleanor Coetzee heads the kitchen but the whole crew is involved with developing dishes, drawing on their personal experiences to present a truly representative menu.
Creation Ridge Chardonnay leads Chapter two, a gorgeously orange wedge of trout with trout belly tartar, peas and a potato crisp. It’s a play on fish and chips with mushy peas, Carolyn Martin told me, but those peas are firm and bursting with spring flavour, their hue vibrant against the fish. The title is “Absolutely Brilliant Chardonnay”, no argument there. Vegans get artichoke and tofu tartar with peas and potato.
Creation’s famous Pinot Noir comes out to play in Chapter three, “Red Velvet”, with lamb cutlets, broccoli and waterblommetjie maize quenelles. The plant-based option for this course is a herb-crusted oyster mushrooms and tofu skewer. This menu is nothing if not season-appropriate.
Moving along, in Chapter four is a take on a braaibroodjie, that beloved South African toasty. Here, it’s gluten-free bread with onion and tomato baked in, with fronds of Klein River Gruberg (like Gruyere) and basil gremolata on the side. It sits atop your glass of Syrah like an OG tapa. This is “Sophisticated Syrah”.
The final chapter, five, is in its simplest description, malva pudding. There is that of course, but also a brandy snap, coconut cream sauce, vegan Anglaise, and honeybush gelato, garnished with spikes of dried candied ginger, honeycomb shards and nutmeg pelargonium flowers. It’s a symphony of flavours and textures which do not confuse the mouth, but caress it with love in every bite. This is “Jasmine Neroli Elixir”, the Creation Cape White: “Enchanting aromas of jasmine and neroli create a perfumed masterpiece. Hand-harvested Viognier undergoes uncommon skin fermentation before fortification with our house-distilled chardonnay lees spirit. This captivating elixir showcases South Africa’s answer to white port-style wines with rare distinction.”
“At Creation, our culinary innovation is inspired by our award-winning range of cool-climate wines and rooted in the creativity of our talented chefs and the fresh ingredients sourced from selected local producers,” says Carolyn. Thank you, I shall see you again in December for the summer menu; my table is already booked. All the info you need is here.
