QUE LINDA in Sea Point has been open for just two months and gracing my Instagram feed with delectable posts the entire time. We went there for dinner this week and I’m delighted to report it’s every bit as lovely as it looks on social media, obviously with the great food too.
I’d been online to check out the menu and became fixated on the main course baked halloumi – R180 for a half portion, R320 for a full one. What manner of cheese was this? From what remote village in Cyprus did it travel? How many animals gave their milk for it? That seems like a lot to pay, even if you do have an idea of the reasoning behind restaurant costs. Well, having been there now and chatted to the owners as well as the chef, all I want is that darn cheese, which I have been assured is a more than generous portion. I am dreaming about that cheese. Could I even eat that much of it? Am willing to try.
Portions are in general quite lavish, from a menu that encompasses pintxos, tapas, main courses and dessert. What you must not do, however, is get hung up on whether Que Linda is authentic Spanish food or not. It’s inspired by Spain, and anyone who has been there will know that tapas in Spain are plain and nothing as fancy as we get in restaurants here. One sunny Tuesday near Rojales, at a beachside cafe, I ordered a glass of wine which came with free tapas. It was a saucer of salted crisps. So you’re going to get the vibes at Que Linda and not quibble over what is a pintxos (snack) and what is tapas (more than a snack), and their relative sizes. It’s all a work in progress.
For example, from the pintxos section I had to have the tortilla. Spanish tortilla is nothing like Mexican tortilla, not even close. A traditional and much-celebrated dish, it is an omelette made with eggs and potatoes, usually including onion – and a lot of oil. Recipes don’t even say how much, you measure that with your heart. It’s also one of those things that everyone’s Spanish granny made in her own way. The wedge that Que Linda serves is easily enough for two people, which was good since we were sharing.
My Fude Forever Friend, who was once the boss of chef Dian Botes and herself a chef, fortuitously found out there was only one portion of the Serrano ham croquetas (croquettes) left, served with paprika aioli, crispy Serrano ham and nduja, and I am so glad she nabbed them for us. Really, really good (see below). Having the right connections, we got a little taste of the jamón Ibérico; in this case I immediately and understood the price of it without question, being the real Iberian deal. In addition to this, I chose the delicious bowl of pan fried calamari, anchovies (white ones!), chorizo, romesco, parsley, capers, lemon and olive oil. The crusty bread brought to the table is perfect for scooping up all that yummy sauce.
While the price of the halloumi was making me ponder, the main course paella for two (available for four, soon to be made for one) is very reasonably priced at R365. It’s made to order and takes about 40 minutes. The pan arrives with bomba rice, sofrito, prawns, chicken, chorizo, mussels, calamari, lemon and parsley, and the all-important and highly prized socarrat – the crunchy charred layer of rice at the bottom of the pan, which is irresistibly moreish.
There are only two desserts: Basque cheesecake which Dian says he is very proud of, and leche fritas – fried milk, vanilla ice cream, cinnamon and chocolate. How does one fry milk? There are skills and secrets and good luck to anyone who wants try it at home. Think about a cross between melktert and flan, and steady hands.
The wine list is extensive. Owners Sean and Gavin Binder of Una Más Tequila & Mezcaleria a few blocks down the road have shared their passion for those drinks there. Now the focus is on wine, the more unusual and unheard of, the better. There are some cocktails too. The first time I had an Aperol Spritz I did not like it (I’m being polite) and never had another one since. Why would I? In the spirit of adventure, I decided to try it again – with far better results. I see on Google you can buy starter packs with Aperol, Prosecco and soda water, jolly clever.
Que Linda is at 39 Regent Road, Sea Point, in one of those gorgeous old buildings which imbues it with so much character. There’s a downstairs seating area; up a few steps is the bar, a couch corner (the kitchen at the back), and an outdoor courtyard filled with fairy lights. Go with a crowd and get stuck into the menu, or why not just embrace the joy of something light and simple with a glass of wine. Or Aperol. It’s open for lunch and dinner, just not on Mondays. More info here.
