ONCE upon a time, because they were on a silly R10 special, I bought a pastel de nata from a supermarket. Just as a shopping snack, you understand. When I ate it, it made me so sad because it was…not awful, exactly, to the point of being inedible, but miles away from being as good as such a pastry can be. There are two morals to this story: one is that you get what you pay for, and secondly, until you know how good things can really be, you’re doomed to believe things you have are the best they can be – until you learn or experience otherwise.
This was on my mind during my stay at Brookdale Estate in Paarl this past weekend. Look, it’s not that bad. At least those people who shop at that supermarket are eating pastries and not going hungry; the Sun1 hotels (formerly Formula 1 and described as “bottom of the range budget hotels”) serve their purpose too. I consider myself extremely fortunate to have only stayed there one interesting night, many, many years ago. I remember carpet tiles on the floor. I’m also deeply grateful that I have a lifestyle which includes staying at very decent hotels and various other accommodations with at least four stars (and feet pillows).
And then there’s Brookdale Estate.
After a slight detour along the gravel road instead of the parallel paved road (yes, I’m the idiot), I arrived and was warmly greeted by GM Yvonne Coetzee. Her husband Gary is the chef. The Manor House itself has five en-suite rooms which are reached by a central grand staircase rising up from the entrance hall. As I descended later for dinner I wondered why no one had suggested I pack a flowing ball gown to trail behind me. It would have been perfect.
“Your room begins here,” she said, unlocking the door on the first floor. “Begins?” I said. Yvonne smiled. I stepped into a hallway lined with cupboards on one side, the large bathroom to the other. I have a no outside-shoe rule in my own home, and the first thing I wanted to do when I walked on those deep, plush, pale honey carpets, was kick off my boots. How can one be allowed to traipse in even the most minuscule particles of dirt? After Yvonne had shown me around, demonstrated the hidden TV at the foot the bed and the cunningly concealed power points in the bedside tables and dresser, and pointed out the tea chest, I quickly located the feet pillows and immediately felt better.
Our wine tasting was conducted by Alessio Ballerini, assistant winemaker to Kiara Scott: Chenin Blanc, Serendipity Rosé and Syrah from the Mason Road range, and the flagship Chenin Blanc of which the older vintages are now sold out. A 375ml bottle from 2019 was in the room’s mini bar, as a special treat. Brookdale also makes a 16-variety white Field Blend (currently sold out) which sounds fascinating, and a similarly multi-variety red blend is on the cards. During October, for breast cancer awareness, Brookdale has partnered with Getwine with a special offer to raise funds for Project Flamingo. You can read all about it here.
Afterwards, I retired to the library to “look” at the books, and by look I mean “borrow” some. Showing unusual restraint, I selected just two, which I disclosed to Yvonne. I didn’t really need them, as I already had my own but, like with wine and records, I find it difficult to resist; the accumulation is like a security blanket for me.
Gary came out with each dish to explain it. I loved the next course of roasted cauliflower with red onion, hummus and dukkah. Vegetarian, vegan even, can still be delicious. The main dish was pink springbok with espresso jus with the faintest tease of cinnamon, broccolini, dauphinoise potatoes and – Brussels sprouts. I loathed these as a child, when the iron-rich pink centres made them revoltingly bitter. A lot has changed in the intervening decades and they’ve been bred to be rather good.
Dessert was white chocolate torte with a perfect quenelle of berry sorbet (Azriel’s handiwork), white chocolate mousse and strawberries from the garden. I loved every mouthful.
In addition to the five rooms in the Manor House, there is a separate vineyard suite for extra privacy. Whichever you choose, you can be assured of splendid accommodations, impeccable service, exquisite food (menus change for every meal), and plenty of wine. Above all, you will be made to feel like the most special person in the world, and that is priceless.
For more information, click here.