THIS time last week I was in in L’Agulhas. That is the small town at the southernmost tip of Africa, part of the Cape Agulhas Municipality, which includes Bredasdorp (the largest town), Napier, Struisbaai, Elim, Arniston and L’Agulhas, and the De Hoop Nature Reserve.
Why the name? The internet is divided. Bartolomeu Dias came around the bottom of Africa back in 1488, naming it the Cape Of Good Hope. Elsewhere it is reported “The name Agulhas, Portuguese for needles, is said to have been given to the cape because the compass-needle was seen to point due north, that is, with no magnetic deviation.” Sticking with needles, other historians think the name may be a reference to the needle-like rock formations and reefs along its coast. This is plausible given the number of ships which have crashed into them.
My accommodation for this trip was at Agulhas Country Lodge, on the main road that runs along the coastline. It’s virtually impossible to get lost; if you continue along that road you’ll soon come to the village where there are restaurants, two convenience stores, and a bottle store, all the important stuff. Past that is the lighthouse, the second-oldest in the country, and a bit farther, the famous southernmost point of the continent, which you might miss if you don’t know where it is and it’s a slow tourist day with no other visitors to indicate the spot.
We were beset by load shedding but being a small establishment without generators, the use of rechargeable light bulbs solved the problem of being plunged into the dark. The kitchen cooks with gas so hot breakfasts were still available, and jolly delicious they were too. I had French toast with bacon, cheese and syrup on the first day; and an English muffin with beautifully soft poached eggs, bacon, and creamy sauce on the second. Dinner is only available for groups and can be booked in advance. If you’re not in a group, I recommend Gavin’s Trattoria for pizza. The Eisbein served at the next table looked so good I wanted to go ask the guy if I could take a pic of his dinner but then I decided that might be a touch too crazy for a small town.
My stay was relaxing, and I appreciated the intimacy and friendliness that come with a small establishment, where you feel more like a friend than a guest. Agulhas Country Lodge is a member of Cape Country Routes. For more information, click here.