WELL, would you look at that? Luke Dale Roberts has done it again. SALON, at the Old Biscuit Mill in Salt River, is the latest addition to his portfolio of culinary destinations, and it is simply marvellous.
The concept is called The Journey, a nine-course culinary trip around the world, stopping in England, France, Italy, Singapore, Korea, and the Philippines – as well as, of course, South Africa – with the menu marking something of a return to the heady days of The Test Kitchen, once rated as the best restaurant in Africa.
“The ‘Dark Room’ experience was, for me, the high point of The Test Kitchen at the time, so I decided to emulate that here at SALON,” says Luke. “On the Journey menu, I’ve taken each country I’ve worked in and created a signature dish from that country’s culinary heritage. I really wanted this menu to be small, focused and interactive. I want people to come along on a voyage that really shows my evolution and influences as a chef.”
Part of that journey has been building teams of talented people, and working alongside Luke in creating the menu was head development chef, Carla Schulze. “Even though she has been behind the scenes, Carla has really been instrumental in creating this experience,” says Luke. “We have become an incredible team, and we work extremely well together in bringing concepts for dishes to life.”
Then it’s across the Channel to France for Forest Noir, which is vanilla and parmesan shortbread, foie gras, sour plum jelly (with more of the same wine), and – oh my word – chocolate. It’s dainty and delicate and delicious. When you’ve only got this far and each dish surpasses the one before it, it helps you manage your expectations. They are high.
Six down, three to go. We fly all the way back to Korea for Beef “Kalbi”, a dish of multiple elements including fillet, chestnut and shiitake rice, mirin tea, ssamjang dipping sauce, ponzu and kimchi. The drink pairing is sake and no, you do not swirl your meat in it (I heard wrong but was luckily stopped in time).
“The Journey menu is a real snapshot of my life as a chef,” says Dale Roberts. “It takes my decades of travelling, tasting and cooking in some incredible kitchens around the world, and condenses it all into a nine-course exploration of all the wonderful flavours and dishes I’ve encountered along the way.”
Luke, we thank you from the bottom of our hearts for sharing this with us, and special mention to Pardon Musiyakuwi who looked after us so well (as did several other staff members, who are to a man, exceptionally highly-trained to explain the dishes in detail). This is such an important part of any dining experience (I think I’ve probably mentioned it before) from fine to fast, and can make the difference between something great and something mediocre.
Long-time interior collaborator, designer Maurice Paliaga, contrasted contemporary elements with tones and textures that resonate with both the heritage of the building and the traditional salon concept. Golden domes and Art Deco patterning soften the square dimensions of the room, while Venetian plasterwork and vintage-style filament lamps bring both texture and warmth. Two alcoves, one with a gorgeous green glass wall, offer semi-private dining experiences.
“Luke felt it was important that SALON was broken up into various areas, and so our plan created a general seating area backed by an elegant bar and banquettes, while intimate dining spaces feature just behind a series of arches,” explains Maurice.